Typically the microOx application
continues for one to three months,
through malolactic fermentation
(MLF). The stopping point is a judgment
call, based upon a collective feel
for when the wine has reached its optimum,
and is ready to go to barrel.
Stonestreet Cabernet Sauvignon is
aged in French oak barrels, and the
lots that have been micro-oxygenated
seem to need slightly more SO2 additions.
However, according to Weerts,
they integrate extremely well with the
oak.
DUNNEWOOD VINEYARDS
George Phelan, winemaker/general
manager of Dunnewood
Vineyards (Ukiah, CA), divides his
rationale of the use of microOx
between those wines that have problems,
such as H2S, and those that
need further development, particularly
press and blending lots, which
have structure but need a push to
soften the tannins or enhance the
fruit. While reds have been the primary
targets, he has used it on Sauvignon
Blanc to reduce a H2S problem.
Phelan incorporates microOx as
soon as the wines are dry, in October
or early November. Often oak chips
and/ or oak inserts are added at the
same time. O2 rates can go as high as
30 mL/L/month. If the microOx is
still in use after MLF, and after SO2
adjustments, the O2 rates are reduced
to 3 to 4 mL/L/ month.
"We use microOx on virtually any
tier of wine, depending on what we
are trying to accomplish," Phelan
explains. "If we are trying to resolve
some of the tannins, or remove some
H2S, we may use microOx on any
wines that will be aged in barrels after
microOx. Otherwise, we use microOx
and barrel staves and/or chips on
California appellation wines that may
not see any other wood."
With a portable Oenodev system
that can be moved from tank to tank,
Phelan and his crew usually only
microOx 10 to 20 lots per year; however
they do expect that to increase its
use as they gain confidence with the
equipment and it's potential.
icro-oxygenation
(microOx) techniques and
equipment have made significant
advancements
since the first experiments, carried out
in the 1990s, to soften heavy red wines
of the Madiran region of France. More
than 100 wineries in the U.S., by some
estimates, are using microOx.
At least three suppliers in the U.S.
offer an array of equipment to meet
the needs of any winery, regardless of
size. This article shares the experience
of ten U.S. wineries that are using
microOx systems.
There are many reasons why winemakers
use this process to introduce
controlled amounts of oxygen into a
wine - from wine enhancement, to
better oak integration, faster barrel
ageing, to fix problem wines - in
almost all stages of the winemaking
process.
In the last several years, Don Blackburn,
Randall Graham, and Tom
Cottrell, among others, have published
excellent reports outlining the
technology involved with micro-oxygenation
(microOx); this report will
update the techniques they described
and provide current thinking about
how microOx is utilized in wineries.
STONESTREET
Graham Weerts learned about
microOx in his home country (South
Africa), applying it to Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, and Shiraz. Upon
arrival as winemaker at
Stonestreet
(Healdsburg, CA), in Alexander
Valley, he found high tannin wines
coming from certain mountain vineyards
that the winery blends into its
Cabernet bottlings. These, he thought,
might benefit from the selective use of
microOx.
The 2004 vintage, with a hotter than
normal growing season that stressed
many shallow-soil, mountain vines,
provided a perfect opportunity to
apply microOx technology on individual
lots. For the past two years, he has
rigorously tasted the many lots and
choosen a few - those with high pyrazine
(bell pepper) or related compounds,
a "sandy or grippy" tannin
mouthfeel, or sulfides - to add oxygen.
Weerts feels that the opportune
time to add oxygen is right after primary
fermentation. Using a trial chart
developed by Oenodev (microOx
equipment supplier), he and his associates
taste the wines for acetaldehyde,
sulfide, and vegetal intensity, fruit
expression, and tannin evolution.
Then, monitoring for dissolved oxygen
(DO), oxygen is slowly introduced,
typically at less than 10
mL/L/month.
Daily and weekly tastes are used to
scrutinize the perceptive changes in
the wine, and allow the winemakers to
determine the needs for additional
doses of oxygen. Dissolved oxygen
content is also a marker for increasing
or decreasing the amount of oxygen.
Weerts does not want it to go above
1ppm DO.