phone:415/479-5819 · fax:415/492-9325
WINEMAKING
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SEBASTIANI VINEYARDS
Long-time winemaker at Sebastiani
(Sonoma, CA), Mark Lyon realized
that he needed to change some of his
production dynamics as the winery
increased production in the late 1990s.
The demands of trying to barrel age
some
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400,000 gallons of moderately
priced ($10 to $17 retail) red wine in a
limited time
span became logistically impossible.
In 1999, he enlisted the expertise of
Oenodev to set up a microOx program
for his Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Pinot Noir, and Syrah programs. His
objective
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was to modify and soften
green tannins with microOx in tanks
with chips and inserts, prior to being
placed into older, neutral barrels. With
the integration achieved by microOx
and wood in the tanks, the wine in
neutral barrels achieved the same aged
character as the wines going into
newer barrels.
In Lyon's experience, the microOx
process seems to build an aldehydic
bridge, minimizing the drying of the
tannins, and reducing the time needed
in barrel.
As his experience with, and knowledge
about microOx increased, Lyon
realized another advantage. With the
huge quantity of grapes required for
the production, picking every block at
optimum ripeness became increasingly
difficult. The use of microOx on
early-picked grapes reduces herbal
and veggie characteristics.
Lyon starts microOx as soon as a
wine is dry at a rate of between 20 to
80 mL/L/month. This continues until
MLF is complete, and then is reduced
to much lower levels. As long as no
Brett or VA is detected, no SO2 is
added. Weekly measurements of DO,
VA, SO2, and clarity accompany the
tasting regime.
Lyon desires a pH of 3.5 to 3.6, dissolved
oxygen at 0.4 ppm maximum,
and temperature for the reds at 57° to
63°F, or slightly lower for Pinot Noir.
In large tanks, circulation is part of the
drill, and he will occasionally request a
racking to disperse the oxygen
throughout the tank.
According to Larry Biagi (American
Tartaric Products), the diffusers will
create their own circulation in tanks
up to about 15,000 gallons. Beyond
that, a pump is needed to make sure
the microOx wine is dispersed in the
tank.
Lyon feels that the finished taste
and market acceptability of these
wines is maintained by the use of
microOx, despite the slightly shortened
barrel ageing period. He also
feels that the wines marry well with
food due to their softness, fresh fruitiness,
and minimal dryness.
Experience is a big factor in using
microOx. Lyon recommends hiring
consulting assistance when purchasing
microOx equipment to ramp up
the experience level quicker, and minimize
any potential problems. A little
bit of hand-holding and side-by-side
assistance of an experienced microOx
taster will go a long way towards making
the initial microOx attempts successful.
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