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Open your eyes...
Following are descriptions of some
vineyard attributes I have found useful
in vineyard assessment and the pursuit
of wine quality. I will present them
more or less in phenological order, first
for vineyards and then for groups of
adjacent vines.
At the vineyard level
Several vineyard attributes are easy
to establish by sight. The most obvious
is vigor, which can be assessed by leaf
color, shoot length and diameter, leaf
area (main and laterals), crop amount,
and trunk diameter. Ride around the
vineyard on top of the harvester and
you will see some of these differences.
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hich of our five human senses
— sight, hearing, taste, smell,
and touch, — are the most
useful in our assessment of
the vineyard attributes that affect wine
quality? My answer is undoubtedly
sight, for the reasons I will give below.
But why would one dwell on this
seemingly obscure topic at all? Well, it
seems to me that in assessing vineyard
attributes we frequently overlook
sight, which is actually one of the most
powerful tools we have available.
My friend Jessica Cortell, a consultant
from Oregon, says, “Observation
is what separates good managers from
the average.” Nelson Shaulis would
tell me that “the vineyard manager’s
shadow is the best vineyard fertilizer.”
I am often in vineyards where managers
want to show me pieces of
equipment that help them assess vineyard
attributes, and yet to my mind,
this often seems a waste of time and
money, as all that may be necessary is
to look at the vines for the answers
they are seeking. I do agree that sometimes
looking
can be accompanied by
measurement, but many devices, such
as the pressure chamber, are much
over-used and little understood when
used in isolation.
1) Poor leaf health due to water and
nutrient stress (pre-harvest), can
compromise fruit composition and wine
quality.
2) How quickly verasion develops, and
how quickly it finishes, are important
guides for potential wine quality.
3) This Spanish vineyard in Penedès has
very good lignification before fruit coloring,
good omen for quality.
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The keen reader will be quick to
note that our assessment of wine quality
relies on three senses—sight, taste,
and smell. I have no argument with
this. However, my aim, is to give
vignerons some clues as to how vineyards
can be assessed by sight alone,
to help manage for improved wine
quality. Most of these assessments are
simple, but I realize some are subjective,
and require experienced eyes and
mind. To this end, I am developing
commercial services for vineyard
grading in Australia, Spain, and hopefully
America.
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