Zinfandel, Syrah, Barbera, Grenache,
Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Petite
Sirah, Primitivo, Viognier, and Graciano
were planted, plus small experimental
plots of Bordeaux varietal.
Rootstocks chosen to match the
soil profile of each block and characteristics
of the variety, include 101-14,
110-R, 1103-P, St. George, 420-A, and
3309. Kraemer states, “It is still too
early to determine the ‘winners and
losers,’ although definite nutritional
attributes are becoming apparent.”
Vine spacing and trellising systems
are designed to give optimal sunlight
to balanced vines on different hillside
exposures. Bilateral cordon VSP vines
are spaced 8 x 5 feet and head-trained
vines are spaced 9 x 7 feet. Row
orientations are tailored to the aspect
of each block. Kraemer’s preference
is to plant in a generally east/west
direction, with tweaks to the north
for optimal sun exposure without
sunburn. Pruning, canopy, and crop
management practices are tailored to
each block, working for optimal vine
balance and targeted wine style.
The vineyards are farmed organically
with the exception of in-row
herbicide. Weed control is a challenge
due to the rocky soil content. Young
blocks are spaded every tractor row
for the first one to two years.
Kraemer’s preference is for permanent
cover crops on established
blocks. However, the vines in some
blocks are not yet strong enough to
tolerate no-till cover in every tractor
row. In these blocks, alternate tractor
rows are seeded annually with
a “soil builder” mix of oats, barley,
and peas which is then spaded.
Once the strength of the vines improves,
she will eventually convert
to permanent cover.
Numerous owls living in the
trees surrounding the vineyard help
contain the large rodent population.
Releases of predaceous mites and
thrips control mites. “Green manure”
cover crops and soil amendments
(mostly gypsum) are the basis for the
vine nutrient program. The program
varies by block, depending on variety,
rootstock, vigor, and soil. Kraemer
watches the weather for mildew pressure,
and adjusts her spray program
accordingly.
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Irrigations (when needed) are long
and deep. No irrigation is applied
until after the vines have stopped
growing and the first fruit thinning
pass is completed. Exception is taken
in dry winter years, when an irrigation
may be done prior to or at bud
break. The objective of this is to help
with nutritional uptake of the vine,
rather than encourage shoot growth.
Thereafter, the strategy varies by
growing season.
Typically, however, there is one irrigation
before and one after veraison.
If water is needed closer to harvest,
then lower volumes are applied. Inline
shut-off valves are used to water
parts of blocks when necessary.
Average overall yield for the last
three vintages is 2.5 to 3.6 tons per
acre. Individual blocks average between
2 and 4 tons per acre. Kraemer
would like to increase yields of the
weaker blocks, by building up their
capacity to carry more fruit.
Kraemer shares some challenges of
farming Shake Ridge:
1) Soil nutrition – High magnesium
and low cation exchange (phosphorus,
boron, zinc, calcium). Compost
application and cover crops build
up soil nutritional balance — a slow
process, but it is working.
2) Mites – Beneficial releases are
employed.
3) Zeroing in on the optimal timing
of fruit thinning and irrigations.
4) Precision, custom farming
requires a lot of hand labor, which
is costly with a small pool of skilled
workers in the area.
What are the biggest opportunities
that farming in Amador brings her?
“Working with varieties I have not
worked with before. Admittedly, this
is definitely also a challenge at times.
Since I am working with my family’s
vineyard, as opposed to an employer
or client, I have the freedom to take
more risks. If I think that something
is the right thing to do, I can do it. I
am always learning something new.”
A portion of Shake Ridge fruit
(25% to 30%) goes to make wines for
the Kraemer family’s own brand,
Yorba Wines. The wines are made
by Ken Bernards at Ancien Winery
(Napa, CA).
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Current releases (2,000 cases
total), include Zinfandel ($28),
Barbera ($26), Tempranillo ($38),
Syrah ($32), and a “Shake Ridge
Red” blend ($28) whose components
differ each vintage.
“All of the wines express the
signature characteristics of the ranch,”
explains Kraemer. “The tannins are
big, yet resolved. There is bold fruit,
balance, and structure. The goal in
making the wines is to show the
potential of the ranch. While we have
some great winemakers buying our
fruit, it is good to have our own brand
connected with the vineyard.”
The balance of Shake Ridge fruit is
sold to other wineries. In 2010, Kraemer
will sell to a total of 12 wineries.
Two are in Calaveras County (Hatcher
and Newsome Harlow). The others
are in Napa and Sonoma Counties
that include Favia, Keplinger, Courier,
Vino D’Angelo, Jazz, Turley, and
Gallica. As a testament to Kraemer’s
viticultural prowess and the inherent
qualities that Amador has to offer as
an appellation, the fruit is coming to
be in high demand.
Conclusion
The history of Amador County is
a rich one. Its future is in the hands
of talented growers with decades of
experience in the region, and also
those new to the area bringing fresh
perspectives. Over the past 40 years,
winegrape growing in Amador has
become more complex, with combinations
of century-old and newly planted
vineyards and expansions into different
grape varieties. The challenge
of this diversity has been met with an
awareness that in order to maximize
quality, collaboration and flexibility
are essential.
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